Wonderful West Virginia
Mountain Biking the Mountain State
By Robin Boyd
Photographs, except where noted, by Daniel Boyd


The author cranks up another hill at Twin Falls State Park.I pedal my bike up a long, winding climb through thick walls of rhododendron. Under my tires I feel rocks jutting from the ground and roots twisted across the trail. My breathing steadies as I reach the top. I put my foot down, take a drink from my water bottle, and look around. Though drops of sweat sting my eyes, I can see clearly. From the ridge where I stand, the view is breathtaking. The mountains of West Virginia seem to roll on forever.

During the past two years I have pedaled my way through West Virginia’s state parks and national forests, collecting information for the soon-to-be-released book Mountain Biking in West Virginia (Second Edition, Quarrier Press). I have ridden to the state’s highest point––Spruce Knob––along the rocky cliffs of the New River Gorge, and in the hills of Wyoming County, which were once dotted with moonshine stills. I have cooled off under pristine waterfalls and crossed meadows of wildflowers taller than my bike.

The only practical way to reach many of the places I have traveled is by bike. For people who haven’t pedaled a bike since childhood, new bike technology makes getting into the deep woods of West Virginia easier and more fun. Today’s mountain bikes are significantly lighter than older models, making riding (even uphill) less strenuous. Most modern bikes have front suspension, allowing for a cushier ride. And gone are the days of 10 speeds; mountain bikes now have between 21 and 24 gears, which provide easy pedaling options on steep climbs. New bikes also have brakes with more stopping power, seats specially designed for comfort, and big knobby tires that provide excellent traction in difficult terrain.

New bike technology also means you need less mechanical know-how to have a safe ride. Quick release levers on today’s mountain bikes make wheels easy to remove in the event of a flat tire. Seats also have quick releases that make changing the seat height simple. Brakes are easily adjusted with a turn of a knob, and chain guards keep chains from jamming. Also, newly designed rack systems make carrying bikes on your car a snap.

After the initial investment of purchasing a bike (often under $500), the associated costs of mountain biking are relatively low. While some private resorts charge a nominal fee to use their trails, riding in West Virginia’s state parks and national forests is free. Most state parks also have campsites, cabins, or lodge rooms available at reasonable rates.

Perhaps best of all, mountain biking is fun. I’ve watched young adults, middle-aged moms, and 60-year-old grandfathers become kids again as they race downhill, enjoy a meandering path, or negotiate tight, roller-coaster-style single-track.

A rider takes a moment to enjoy the scenery at Sutton Lake.With its rolling hills and rooted, rocky trails, West Virginia is a top mountain biking destination. Since 1998, the percentage of tourists coming to West Virginia to mountain bike/hike has increased from 8 to 16 percent. The International Mountain Biking Association (IMBA) ranked West Virginia the second most “mountain bike friendly” state in the nation. According to West Virginia outdoor recreation specialist Tony O’Leary, the distinction means that West Virginia excels at mountain bike promotion, trail access, and race/event coordination. In addition, in 2004, Governor Bob Wise declared June Mountain Biking Month.

West Virginia also consistently tops lists of best biking destinations in outdoor sports magazines. For the past several years, Snowshoe Resort has hosted national mountain biking championship races. These races, as well as other West Virginia showdowns such as 24 Hours of Snowshoe, have been featured on ESPN and the Outdoor Life Network. West Virginia mountain biker Sue Haywood––currently ranked number two among professional female mountain bikers in the United States and number six in the world––consistently mentions her Canaan Valley mountain biking roots during magazine and television interviews.

Mountain Biking in West Virginia will cover the state’s mountain biking hot spots, including Canaan Valley and Snowshoe. But West Virginia also has a number of lesser-known biking treasures, including smaller parks and resorts with hundreds of miles of trails that cross the same type of mountainous, rocky terrain that has made mountain biking famous at the state’s more popular destinations. Below are some of my favorite out-of-the-way gems.

Twin Falls Resort State Park
Twin Falls Resort State Park in Wyoming County offers excellent mountain biking and rich history. By Steve ShalutaThe 3,776-acre Twin Falls Resort State Park in Wyoming County offers excellent biking alongside two of the state’s most beautiful waterfalls. Be sure to ride Moonshiners Trail, Hemlock Trail, and Falls Trail Loop. The riding here is nontechnical, but there are plenty of ups and downs, so be prepared for a good workout. Along the way, you will see barrels and broken glass from an old moonshine still. According to local lore, the holes in many of the barrels are the handiwork of local authorities, who used to damage the containers during raids in order to render them useless.

Stonewall Jackson Lake Resort State Park
For a day of fairly easy but enjoyable mountain biking, ride the trails at Stonewall Jackson Lake Resort State Park in Lewis County. Named for the Confederate Civil War general, the park features fun biking that passes through an apple orchard, winds into the hills, and eventually drops down to the lake. The trails at Stonewall Jackson Lake are so well groomed that I often joke that someone must sweep them with a broom on a daily basis. Hevener Trail, Autumn Laurel Brooke Trail, and Overlook Trail are all excellent.

Holly River State Park
To see Tenskwatawa Falls (named for a Shawnee medicine man) and some stunning views of the Hacker Valley, ride Holly River State Park in Webster County. With elevations higher than 2,800 feet, it boasts some of the best downhill riding in the state. The initial climb is pretty tough, but the reward is a long, fun downhill with mild drop-offs and tight switchbacks in places. Big Bear Lake
Don’t miss the unusual and beautiful ride through the pines on trail I-29 at Big Bear Lake.Preston County’s privately owned Big Bear Lake is advertised as “nature’s scenic wonderland” for good reason. The 4,000-acre park has 21 miles of single-track that winds through beautiful countryside. Some sections of trail pass through a lush pine forest with thick, evenly spaced trees. The trails here are numbered. Ride as many as you can, but be sure to catch I-29 for the ride through the pines.

Cacapon Resort State Park
Cacapon Resort State Park in Berkeley County offers great biking, beautiful views, and affordable lodging. By Steve ShalutaFor an incredible view of the mountainous Eastern Panhandle, ride the Overlook Trail at Cacapon Resort State Park. The trail travels an old fire road for a little more than 11 miles, at which point it reaches Prospect Rock, which is said to have been a favorite destination of George Washington. The magnificent rock outcroppings, which Washington wrote about in his journals, provide a perfect spot for a picnic and a little bouldering. The trail is an out and back. Allow three to eight hours for the almost 23-mile ride. Though not technical, the terrain is rolling, with many short, steep climbs in both directions, requiring that riders be physically fit.

Whether mountain biking leads you to a stunning waterfall, a marvelous overlook, or a delightful historical site, it allows you to enjoy parts of the state difficult to access by other means. Biking may take you to places you have never been and to places you never knew existed, and it may also take you to places within yourself that you may not have visited since childhood.

With trails that combine technical terrain and beautiful scenery, like this rocky ride at Dolly Sods, it’s no surprise that West Virginia ranks as a top mountain biking destination.Mountain Biking in West Virginia is due to be released in Spring 2005. The book will contain trail descriptions, difficulty ratings, mileage information, and beautiful photographs by Daniel Boyd. An earlier book of the same name by Frank Hutchins is currently the most helpful biking guide to the Mountain State (see the West Virginia Bookshelf page 30).

Robin Boyd (formerly Broughton), Ph.D., is an associate professor of communications at West Virginia State University. She has raced mountain bikes and ridden recreationally for more than 12 years. She and her husband, Daniel, live in Charleston with their four children.